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in dublin! 

Too often, vitamin supplements are generalized when it comes to reptiles, which can lead to an overdose of a certain vitamin/mineral (most commonly vitamin D3) or a deficiency in a certain vitamin/mineral (most commonly vitamin A).

We have been looking for a guide that is straight forward and easy to use, and we found the EarthPro Supplementation Programme by Arcadia the best in terms of ease of use. We are a huge fan of Arcadia reptile products and this feeding programme is no exception. Arcadia are at the forefront of new dietary programmes for reptiles and are always coming up with new products, literature and information. For an extensive look into reptile nutrition, we recommend The Arcadia Guide to Reptile and Amphibian Nutrition book, which offers a plethora of information on what diet and husbandry is needed for each species and most importantly, WHY they are so important. Arcadia strive to replicate the animal’s wild habitat, which should always be the objective when it comes to animal husbandry.

In this blog, we will cover the feeding programmes of our most common pet reptiles:

1.       Insectivores (e.g. the leopard gecko, crested gecko, panther chameleon, White’s Tree Frogs)

2.       Omnivore (e.g. the bearded dragon)

3.       Carnivore (snakes e.g. cornsnake, royal python, western hognose, milksnake)

4.       Herbivore (e.g. Horsfield’s tortoise)

1.       Crested Gecko (Omnivore):

Main Diet: A complete crested gecko diet such as Repashy Grubs ‘n’ Fruit and live insects.

Supplements: Arcadia EarthPro-Aon all items on feeds 1, 2 and 3. Arcadia CalciumPro-Mg on all items on feed 4. We then use Arcadia EarthPro-A for feed 5, 6, 7. Then use an optional high quality powder with pre-formed A and D3 for feed 8. Our recommendation would be Arcadia RevitaliseD3 or Vetark Nutrobal. We then continue this cycle. Introduce Arcadia ShedSupport as needed - (arcadiareptile.com)

How often do I feed my crested gecko?: Cresties should be fed every second day. Their complete crested gecko diet needs to be mixed with water until it has reached a watery custard consistency. Depending on the gecko, some may eat live insects more often than others. Don’t worry if your crestie is not too interested in live insects!

2.       Leopard Gecko (Insectivore)

Main Diet: Exclusively insectivores

Supplements: Use Arcadia EarthPro-A at every feed and on all food items, CalciumPro Mg at every 4th feed and a quality full-spectrum powder with D3 and A can be offered at feed 6 or 8. We recommend Arcadia RevitaliseD3 or Vetark Nutrobal. We then carry on with this cycle. Arcadia ShedSupport can be as directed over the shedding period.

How often do I feed my leopard gecko?: leopard geckos under 1 year old should be offered food everyday (e.g. 4-6 size 2 brown crickets). Juvenile leopard geckos should also be fed everyday until approximately 12-18 months old (e.g. 3-4 large locusts/size 4 brown crickets). Adult leopard geckos should be fed approximately 3-4 times a week (e.g. 3-4 large locusts or standard brown crickets). Be careful not to overfeed – leopard geckos can be prone to obesity! Keep a close eye on under their arms – if they develop little underarm fat pockets, they need to go on a diet! If this happens, reduce their feeding to 1-2 times a week, only offering 2-3 insects at a time (e.g. 2-3 large locusts) still keeping to the above supplement programme.

3.       Bearded Dragon (Omnivore)

Diet: Insects and some fruits/vegetables

Supplements: Use Arcadia EarthPro-A at every feed and on all food items, CalciumPro Mg at every 4th feed and a quality full-spectrum powder with D3 and A can be offered at feed 6 or 8. We recommend Arcadia RevitaliseD3 or Vetark Nutrobal. We then carry on with this cycle. Arcadia ShedSupport can be as directed over the shedding period.

How often do I feed my bearded dragon?: bearded dragons should be offered fresh vegetables everyday. The most popular and healthy for them include dandelions (pesticide free), pak choi leaves, rocket leaves, bell peppers with the occasional apple slice or blueberry treat. As juveniles, bearded dragons tend to prefer insects, so offer these everyday. When an adult, offer insects everyday. Add supplements above to both vegetables and insects as instructed.

4.       Panther Chameleon (Insectivore)

Main Diet: Exclusively insectivores

Supplements: Use Arcadia EarthPro-A at every feed and on all food items,CalciumPro Mg at every 4th feed and a quality full-spectrum powder with D3 and A can be offered at feed 6 or 8. We recommend Arcadia RevitaliseD3 or Vetark Nutrobal. We then carry on with this cycle. Arcadia ShedSupport can be as directed over the shedding period.

How often do I feed my panther chameleon?: panther chameleons should be offered food everyday and follow the above supplement programme. Be sure to feed them the appropriate sized insect as they can be prone to impaction. Hydration is vital with most habitats needing to be sprayed down three times a day to maintain the correct humidity. Chameleons have more complex requirements to other reptiles, so please get in touch if you have questions regarding their care!

5.       Snakes (e.g. cornsnakes, royal pythons) (Carnivore)

Main diet: meat e.g. frozen thawed mice, rats, chicks or rabbits

Supplements: defrosted whole animal items can be offered with Arcadia EarthPro-A at every feed. Arcadia CalciumPro-Mgat the 4th feed in the cycle. For problem shedders,Arcadia ShedSupport can be used as per the instructions on the packet. As snakes feed in longer periods the dose is built up per feed and over time.

How often do I feed my snake?: As a general guide, we recommend feeding your snake roughly once a week, depending on age, species and size. For a guide on what to feed your snake, get in touch with us on facebook or Instagram!

6.       Tortoise (herbivores) – a general term for the land-based herbivores. E.g. Horsfield’s tortoise and Hermann’s tortoise.

Main diet: high quality tortoise pellets such as ProRep Tortoise Pellets along with daily fresh vegetables such as pak choi, dandelions (pesticide free), certain flowers, rocket leaves, bell peppers with the occasional fresh fruit treat (avoid citrus fruits).

Supplements: Arcadia EarthPro-A on every feed with Arcadia CalciumPro-Mg every 4th feed on all items. A quality powder with D3 and A at feed 6 or 8 in the cycle. We recommend Arcadia RevitaliseD3 or Vetark Nutrobal. Arcadia ShedSupport can be used where needed as per the instructions.

How often do I feed my tortoise?: Tortoise should be offered food every day, as they are grazers and do consume a large amount of food.

These guidelines are the basic feeding needs of some of the most commonly kept reptiles in Ireland. Please reach out to us if you have any further questions. Don’t forget to ensure that your reptile has a suitable linear UVB bulb and fresh water available at all times too! For more info contact us @shaunaspetshop on Facebook or Instagram 

Some excerpts taken from arcadiareptile.com.

 For full supplement guides visit https://www.arcadiareptile.com/earthpro/feeding-programme/

The Bearded Dragon
(Pogona Vitticeps)

At Shauna's Pet Shop we are often asked... 
"how much should I feed my Bearded Dragon?"
"How often should I feed my Bearded Dragon?"
"What should I feed my Bearded Dragon?"

We hope to answer some of these questions below!

Bearded Dragons are omnivores, which means they require both a plant and animal-based diet.

For Hatchlings (0-6 months old) it is recommended that they have insects twice a day and to be given vegetables daily.

For Juveniles (6-12 months old) insects once a day and vegetables daily.

For Adults (>12 months old) should have insects twice or three times a week and vegetables daily.

But what insects and what vegetables you may ask? Let's get into the nitty-gritty of it...

Crickets are a popular choice, they have a high level of protein and these fast insects encourage your bearded dragon to hunt for his food. They can be a staple insect for your bearded dragon.
Locusts are another popular choice and we recommend them especially for younger dragons, as they have a much softer exoskeleton making them easier to digest and avoid impaction. 
Dubia roaches are a favourite for adult beardie keepers as they are fun for beardies to hunt and these insects are naturally very high in calcium. 

Waxworms are a popular treat, but remember, there are just a treat! Waxworms do not provide much nutritional value for your beardie; they can also become addicted to these fatty little worms.

Warning: Mealworms and Morio worms should only be given to adult bearded dragons. These worms have a hard exoskeleton (their outer shell), which can be very difficult for young beardies to digest. If given, there is a risk of impaction to your pet.

Tip: Unsure what size insect to feed? The insect should be no bigger than the space between your Beardie's eyes!

When it comes to vegetables, there are a few staples that can be regularly given. Pak choi, rocket leaves, collard greens, kale and alfalfa to name a few. Red pepper and peeled cucumbers as well! Offering variety to your Bearded Dragon is the most beneficial to their long-term health.

If you have trouble finding suitable vegetables at your local supermarket, try visiting an international supermarket. Many vegetables that beardies can enjoy aren't a regular staple on Irish dinner tables, such as pak choi and collard greens.

Bearded dragons can also have a limited amount of fruit as a treat such as apple, raspberries and peeled bananas. They should not have any citrus fruits, due to their acidic nature it can cause a stomach upset.

Tip: Bearded dragons shouldn't be given too much spinach. Spinach is a calcium inhibitor, this means it can reduce the ability for your beardie to absorb calcium from their food. Iceberg lettuce, rhubarb and avocado should NOT be given to Bearded Dragons.

---------------------

Horsefield Tortoise
Testudo Horsfieldii

The Horsfield's tortoise is a herbivore, which means they are a plant-eating animal.

Young tortoises should be given an unlimited amount of food each day while they are still growing; when they reach adulthood the amount of food they have access to should be roughly the size of their shell. 

Pre made tortoise diets such as Prorep Fruit & Flower pellet mix is an excellent addition to a tortoise's diet. Not forgetting Komodo's Tortoise Flower Mix and Arcadia Earth Pro FlowerBoost are great food toppers as well.

Fresh greens and grasses are always going to be the best thing for your tortoise. Staple fresh foods you can offer your tortoise are: alfalfa, watercress, rocket, dandelions (endure they are pesticide free!), rose petals, collard greens and ficus leaves for example. 

The following should only be offered in small quantities: kale, spinach and broccoli.

Food should always be offered on a shallow dish, you do not want your tortoise accidentally ingesting his substrate.

Warning: buttercups, daffodils and ivy are poisonous to Horsfield's tortoises!

Remember, the above information isn't extensive. We have not included everything your pet can or cannot have. The correct supplements need to be considered as well for reptiles kept in captivity. Check out our blog article on supplementing your reptile's diet coming soon. Research is always improving and changing. Keep exploring and learning.

1. How your bird sees the world: Birds can see a wider portion of the colour spectrum than we can, when they have access to UVA they can see colours of their environment more clearly, studies have also shown that birds feel more confidence in the presence of full spectrum UV as they can see their environment in full colour. While UVA helps birds identify mates, prevent feather plucking, select ripe food and it also improves their appetite.

2. UV & Calcium: Companion birds who have access to UVB can better synthesis vitamin D3, in turn they are able to best absorb calcium, this allows them to have strong bones and healthy eggs. Birds on a poor diet (all seeds and therefore calcium deficient) will benefit immensely by having access to full spectrum UV all year round. Certain species of birds such as African Grey parrots are prone to having low calcium levels.

3. Just like reptiles: Birds are an extremely close relation to reptiles, and are thought to be the closest living descendants to dinosaurs! Like reptiles, although they can obtain vitamin D3 from supplements, it is better for them to absorb it naturally through UVB light, where they can absorb only what they need. 

4. Light through a window is not enough: It is also worth noting that the benefits of UV cannot pass through glass, a cage placed near a window is insufficient.

5. Being outdoors with your bird: If you are bringing your bird outside to get some natural sunshine (secured safely in either a travel cage or properly fitted harness) the ideal temperatures would be between 18-29 degrees celcius.

6. Choosing the right light: It is vital that you choose a UV bulb that is designed for birds and is kept at the recommended distance from the top of the cage as the output must be the correct intensity. If you choose a bulb not designed for birds, the UV output could be too high, which can damage a birds eyes as they have thinner corneas and skin compared to mammals. We recommend the Arcadia PureSun Compact Bird Lamp along with a free standing lamp holder which can be positioned above your bird's enclosure and adjusted easily. 

For more information, you can get in touch with us on social media @shaunaspetshop! 

The Nitrogen Cycle – an essential process

Many people ask us why they need to wait a few weeks before adding fish to a new aquarium. The answer is – because your aquarium needs to establish a nitrogen cycle to break down waste in the aquarium. If there is no nitrogen cycle, the water will build up ammonia which will poison your fish. Some fish may survive in water without a filter / without this process; but they are surviving, not living.

Steps on cycling your aquarium:

Step 1: Ensure you have a suitable filter for your aquarium and that it is completely clean before using. EVERY aquarium should have a filter, no matter what size or amount of fish or plants you plan on keeping. If you are going to have live plants, put about2-3 inches of aquarium soil on the bottom of your aquarium. Fill aquarium to the top, leaving about 1 inch of room at the top. Fully submerge your filter while keeping it as close to the surface as possible. Keep it plugged in and running 24/7, never turn your filter off.

*for planted aquariums, the soil will make the water very cloudy. This will clear up in a couple of weeks and is not damaging to your water quality. Never turn your filter off.

Step 2: Add your water conditioner (API Stress Coat) and biological enhancer (API Stress Zyme) to your water. Leave completely alone for 1 week. During this time, the good bacteria in the biological enhancer will start to grow in the filter media. This is the beginning of the nitrogen cycle.

Step 3: After one week, it is time to do a water change! *(see below in bold if you have a planted aquarium) Two very important points to remember are 1) NEVER empty all the water from your aquarium and 2) do not take your fish out of the aquarium for any reason. To perform a water change, use your gravel cleaner to syphon out 25-30% of your water into a clean bucket. While doing this, suck up as much waste and debris from the water as possible by using it to rummage around the gravel at the bottom. When the water is removed, remove the sponge from your filter and rinse the sponge in the water in the bucket. Do not rinse the sponge under tap water as this will kill the good bacteria. Place the sponge back into the filter when rinsed. Fill your aquarium again with new water (from the tap or otherwise) and add your water conditioner and biological enhancer. And that’s all there is to it!

*for planted aquariums please follow these guidelines below instead:

After one week, it is time to do a water change! Two very important points to remember are 1) NEVER empty all the water from your aquarium and 2) do not take your fish out of the aquarium for any reason. You are not going to be using a gravel cleaner to syphon out your water. Instead, use a container / cup to take out 25-30% of water into a clean bucket. IMPORTANT – remember to remove any dead plant matter or any dead oragnic matter from your aquarium with a tongs or clean hands etc. When the water is removed, remove the sponge from your filter and rinse the sponge in the water in the bucket. Do not rinse the sponge under tap water as this will kill the good bacteria. Place the sponge back into the filter when rinsed. Fill your aquarium again with new water (from the tap or otherwise) and add your water conditioner and biological enhancer. And that’s all there is to it!

Step 4: Wait another week and repeat this process. We then welcome you to bring a sample of your water (roughly 200ml) to our store where we can test it and see whether your water is ready for some fish and plants. Depending on the results of your water test, you may need to continue to cycle your water for a longer period. This is a result of a number of factors, including water quality in your area. Please be patient as this is to ensure your fish will be happy and healthy in their new home!

My water is ready! What next?

Adding fish and/or plants to your aquarium: Now is the exciting part – adding the fish! *(see below for plants). When taking home fish from our store, they will be in a special fish bag with lots of oxygen. This oxygen will last up to 90 minutes, so aim to go home right after collecting your fish! When you get home, pop the closed bag into your aquarium and allow it to float for about 15 minutes. This is to acclimate your fish to your water temperature. Next, while keeping the bag floating in your water, open the bag and add two cups of your own aquarium water. This will help the fish acclimate to your water parameters. Leave for approximately 30 minutes then add the whole contents of the bag into your aquarium. Ideally, leave any lights off until the next day to minimise stress on your new friends.

*when adding plants to your aquarium, simply follow the instructions on the packaging. Every plant is different so if there are no instructions, contact us and we’ll talk you through the process.

Maintenance: The most common cause of health issues in fish is overfeeding. Only feed your fish ONCE a day, with roughly one flake / granule per fish (depending on size & species).* Alternatively, feed what they will eat in under 30 seconds; i.e. you do not want to see leftover food in the aquarium. This will lead to an ammonia spike which can be lethal. Continue to carry out water changes once a week by following Step 3 above.

*plants need to be fed too! We recommend feeding your plants with liquid Co2 (EasyCarbo) and a fertilizer (Tropica Premium Nutrition). Plants will also feed on the nitrates produced by your fish’s waste.

We hope you enjoy your new scaly friends! No question is a silly question so please contact us through social media @shaunaspetshop if you have any questions or would like any advice! 

This blog takes excerpts from www.ReptiFiles.com with permission. Please visit the links below to read the full articles.

The Mounting Evidence of the Benefits of UVB for all Reptiles

There is significant evidence in scientific literature to suggest that all reptiles need UVB light, and UVB provision should be more commonplace in both zoological collections and the reptile industry than it is now.

It could also be argued that not doing so fails conditions of animal welfare legislation. The provision of UVB should not be considered a supplementary measure, but a necessary part of herpetological husbandry regardless of the species in question. Giving the option to use UVB should be just as commonplace as giving the option of multiple hides.

Give them what they’d have in the wild!

Providing UVB at levels similar to what each species experiences in its wild habitat could be argued as an essential part of replicating the species’ natural environment. Providing UVB light for reptiles complies with the need for a suitable environment, the need to be able to exhibit normal behaviour patterns, and the need to be protected from pain, suffering, injury, and disease.

A gradient of ultraviolet light and visible light is just as important as various basking spots and thermal gradients. These should coincide with the thermal gradient to encourage natural behaviours.

Everyone needs UVB

If this is to be considered baseline satisfactory welfare, then the provision of artificial UVB must become a necessary component of captive husbandry, not just an option. It must become acknowledged that all reptiles need UVB light, not just some.

For example, the age-old of argument of, “It’s nocturnal—it doesn’t need UVB,” is rendered redundant when studies testing for a rise in 25-hydroxyvitamin D in nocturnal and crepuscular species such as Burmese Pythons (Python bivittatus), Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis macularius), and Corn Snakes (Pantherophis guttatus) all show a positive correlation between UVB and high 25-hydroxyvitamin D levels.

Why is UVB lighting and Vitamin D3 So Important?

UVB (combined with heat) is required for the creation of vitamin D, and in turn, it is required for the healthy function of many associated metabolic processes. After getting processed into its usable form by the liver, vitamin D plays essential roles in a reptile’s brain, heart, lungs, kidneys, bones, immune system and digestive system.

Additionally, UVB exposure plays an important role in boosting immune response, stimulating beta endorphin production, and increasing pigmentation (colour).

UVB lamps are expensive. Why not just give them vitamin D in their food?

1.     Because “homemade” vitamin D (from the sun or artificial UVB lights) is more available for the reptile’s body to use, and thus more effective. In one study, corn snakes exposed to UVB had higher (read: healthier) levels of vitamin D than those which had no UVB lighting and only received vitamin D from their food.

2.     Because cellular vitamin D production is self-regulating, so when adequate UVB lighting is provided, it is impossible for a reptile to develop a vitamin D deficiency or toxicity. The reptile creates exactly the amount of vitamin D that its body needs.

But some reptiles don’t need UVB, right?

Wrong!

If you keep snakes or crepuscular lizards like crested geckos or leopard geckos, you may have heard people emphatically assert that these species “don’t need UVB,” that it’s a “waste of money,” that it “hurts their eyes,” etc.

This is a very outdated approach, and more folklore husbandry than scientific fact. In fact, a mounting number of modern studies are proving the benefits of providing UVB to captive species that don’t ordinarily get UVB.

Nocturnal animals DO bask in their own way

Outside of formal research, many reptile keepers have observed daytime basking behavior in nocturnal species that have been provided with UV lighting. Although they may not bask as openly as bearded dragons or Ackie’s monitors, they will cryptically bask by strategically exposing parts of their bodies to UV while keeping the rest hidden. This is a strategy evolved in the wild to help them get benefits from sunlight without making themselves vulnerable to predators.

What is the best type of UVB light for my reptile?

There are many different types of UVB bulbs available for reptiles on the market. It can be intimidating when first seeing the vast range of screw-in, tube and LED variations but we’re here to help! Ensure you are getting your information from reliable, knowlegable sources before choosing the UVB bulb for your pet.

1.     Flourescent Liner Bulb – T5

a.      Pros: optimal UVB output and coverage; the latest in UVB technology; lots of T5 systems have the controller built into the unit meaning you don’t need an additional controller therefore it costs less and takes up less room; can provide excellent UVB output for animals through wire mesh outside the enclosure (for example the wire mesh roof on a glass Exo Terra terrarium), bulbs only need to be replaced once a year (on average); there is no ‘flickering’ of light as reported from T8 bulbs.

b.     Cons: slightly less energy efficient than T8 bulbs  

2.     Flourescent Linear Bulb – T8

a.      Pros: much better range of UVB output compared to T10 (screw-in) bulbs; readily available in most petstores.

b.     Cons: need to be replaced every 6 months (on average); needs to be inside the enclosure to provide adequate UVB output; cases of bulb ‘flickering’ are common which can stress your animal (and your wallet!)

3.     Screw-in (compact) Flourescent Bulb – T10

a.      Pros: universal fitting, takes up less space than a linear bulb

b.     Cons: expensive for what you’re getting; 99% of the time they don’t give the adequate amount of UVB for the species; UVB range is very small therefore your animal may not be receiving any benefit; need to be replaced at least every 6 months (on average)

When in doubt, keep in mind that all reptiles are exposed to the sun at some point or other in their natural habitat. Even those that seem to spend most of their time in holes or caves are indirectly exposed to small amounts of beneficial sunlight that reflects off rocks and other surfaces in the environment and into their hiding space.

FACT: If roles were reversed and reptiles were keeping pet humans, we would need artificial UVB lighting too!

Links:

https://animallaw.ie/

https://reptifiles.com/reptile-uvb-light-necessity/

https://www.thebiodude.com/blogs/reptile-and-amphibian-caresheets-with-cited-veterinary-and-herpetology-sources/introduction-to-uvb-and-reptiles-part-1

Enrichment is often overlooked by new dog owners. The focus is putting our dogs on structured daily walks and hope that will be enough for them to be able to relax for the rest of the day. Many people have discovered the hard way that their dog needs a LOT more than just walks!

Imagine being a dog for a moment... you go out for an hour long walk, you then go home and sit on your couch or stare out of the window for a few hours, you might even have a short nap, all this time is spent either waiting for your next walk or your next meal. It would be difficult to not turn on the TV, read a book or look at some memes on your phone, right? Well it isn't all that fun for a dog either! Boredom often leads a dog to mischief, chewing your slipper, stealing food off the kitchen counter or even worse... getting into the bin and pulling everything out! In their world, this is all entertainment, a dog might even call it enrichment.

A few examples of these natural behaviours we see dogs do are sniffing, licking and searching for food. We can use these things that dogs love to do to our advantage. I often recommend owners of high energy dogs to #banthebowl, every time we feed our dog from a bowl, we are missing a perfect opportunity to use their food for enrichment.

With many owners now returning to the office, enrichment is going to become a more important tool than ever in order to keep your dog as stimulated and relaxed as possible while you are working.

Below are some examples of items we have in store that can help keep a dog busy:

Kong Classic https://www.shaunaspetshop.ie/dogs?store-page=Kong-Classic-Large-p190532685

The classic Kong was a game changer for many dog owners when it arrived on the scene. Suitable for any dog as it comes in many different sizes, the Kong can have wet or dry food inside of it, it can also be placed in the freezer to make it more difficult for food to come out. Some dogs will even continue to play with it once it's empty, as it will continue to smell like their food long after they have finished using it!

Kong Wobbler https://www.shaunaspetshop.ie/dogs?store-page=Kong-Wobbler-Small-p210719809

One of my personal favourites... the Kong Wobbler is an extremely robust enrichment toy and is fantastic for large dogs or dogs who are prone to destroying their toys. You twist it open and place their dry food inside, your dog will have to knock it around to get their food to fall out.

Trixie Junior Snuffle Mat: https://www.shaunaspetshop.ie/dogs?store-page=Trixie-Junior-Snuffle-Mat-p378492795

This is fantastic for dogs who love to use their nose, like Hounds and Spaniels, as well as dogs who have a more sensitive stomach and can't have many treats. Pour their kibble onto the mat and push it into the folds, your dog will have to use their nose to sniff it out, which is tiring work!

LickiMat Soother Treat Mat https://www.shaunaspetshop.ie/dogs?store-page=LickiMat-Soother-Treat-Mat-20cm-Orange-p241667453

This item is fantastic for flat faced breeds and toy breeds (French Bulldogs, Pugs and Chihuahuas for example) who can sometimes struggle using a traditional Classic Kong. Kong Easy Treat Paste, NatureDiet Feel Good wet food or try adding warm water to your dog's kibble to make it soft if they have a sensitive stomach. These are great options to use on a Lickimat. Licking is quite a calming behaviour for dogs to perform so they can get quite sleepy once they are finished with this. Pop it in the freezer to make it a little more difficult too!

We have more examples of other enrichment toys on our website, they can be found here: https://www.shaunaspetshop.ie/dogs?store-page=Enrichment-c48690221

Lets not forget about our other furry friends!

Enrichment isn't just for dogs, all animals benefit from it, even reptiles! Here are some other enrichment item examples for other animals.

Cats

Kong Puzzlements Pockets Enrichment Toy https://www.shaunaspetshop.ie/cats?store-page=Kong-Puzzlements-Pockets-Enrichment-Toy-p260208769

Kong Infused Cat Treat Gyro Toy https://www.shaunaspetshop.ie/cats?store-page=Kong-Infused-Cat-Treat-Gyro-Toy-p239498362

Catit Groovy Motion Fish - Blue https://www.shaunaspetshop.ie/cats?store-page=Catit-Groovy-Motion-Fish-Blue-p381392414

Rabbits & Guinea Pigs

Trixie Snack Roll Enrichment Toy https://www.shaunaspetshop.ie/small-pets?store-page=Trixie-Snack-Roll-Enrichment-Toy-p257927787

Hamsters

Rodipet® Birch Cannelloni con Nocciola https://www.shaunaspetshop.ie/small-pets?store-page=Rodipet%C2%AE-Birch-Cannelloni-con-Nocciola-p408271475

Comment below with your enrichment ideas to be featured on our website! We'd love to hear from you :) 

1. Bearded dragons are probably the most docile reptile to keep; they will happily lie on you and chill out with you while you watch tv! This makes them a great pet for all the family. 

2.  They are active during the day and will bask in very hot temperatures!

3. Adult bearded dragons need a bare minimum of a 4ft x 2ft x 2ft enclosure (bigger is always better) with desert strength linear T5 UVB bulb and basking lights. They need to have access to different levels of UVB so plenty of décor in which to climb is essential in their wellbeing!

4. Bearded dragons are best kept on their own as they can be quite territorial.

5. In captivity, bearded dragons are prone to obesity, so a habitat that has enrichment to keep them active and encourages natural behaviour is very important!  

6. Bearded dragons LOVE their food! For a juvenile a ratio of 70/75% protein and 20/25% vegatation is necessary for optimal growth. For an adult the ratio is 70/75% vegatation and 20/25% protein to maintain ideal body condition.

7. Let’s talk about supplements and the calcium to phosphorus ratio. Bearded dragons need calcium for proper bone and egg development.

We recommend a calcium to phosphorus ratio of 2:1, as well as calcium and vitamin D3. Vitamin A can play an important role in the health of your bearded dragon. This vitamin must be given sparingly therefore we recommend a supplement that contains beta carotene as an alternative to vitamin A as beta carotene will turn into vitamin A based on the animal's needs.

8. Bearded dragons are a wonderful pets for the whole family once their needs are met. They live on average 7-15 years in captivity.

9. Bearded dragons will really appreciate a soil substrate in which to dig, especially a gravid female.

10. Gut loading: this aspect of reptile care is commonly overlooked, but plays a vital role in the overall health of your bearded dragon. We highly recommend Habistat Medivet Insecta Snack as a gut loading diet for feeder insects. 

11. Safe vegetation for your bearded dragon: we recommend mustard greens, collard greens, dandelions, water cress and pak choi.

12. Check out our reptile packages on our website: https://www.shaunaspetshop.ie/reptilesinvertebrates?store-page=Reptile-%26-Enclosure-Complete-Packages-c49575593

and our range of reptile décor: https://www.shaunaspetshop.ie/reptilesinvertebrates?store-page=Decor-c49115441

Meet our Bearded Dragons Availabe for Adoption Below along with their Pictures:

It is so important that a potential owner is aware of the care needs of any animal they are considering adding to their family. Here at Shauna's, we do our best to help match families with their ideal pet and go through their care in detail before they take them home.

We are not a rescue centre. We will only consider taking in an animal in need if they have specific requirements that most rescue centres do not have access to and we have the means to help at that time. This was the case of these three bearded dragons below who we took in from various seperate situations. These dragons are available for adoption but please rememeber that all the above requirements still apply to these animals. 

1. Hiccup: Hiccup is an almost one year old suspected male. He came from Shauna's Petshop where he was bought as a baby last summer. His family, due to no fault of their own, could no longer keep him and they were devastated to say goodbye to him, but he was extremely well looked after and is so friendly that we're sure he'll have no problem finding a new home! His family donated all his accessories with him including his enclosure, lighting and decor which will go to his new home with him. 

2. Big Edwina: Edwina was a rescue that came in to us after she was given to someone as a gift. She has a short tail that looks to have been partially amputated. This could be as a result of a fight between her and her siblings when she was a baby, catching her tail in the sliding door of her enclosure, etc. we'll never know! It's healed perfectly though and doesn't cause her any issues. She is a big character and loves to be involved in what's going on around her. She also loves her vegetables, especially pak choi and dandelions! 

3. Charmander: Charmander came into us as a hatchling. It was clear he must have been kept in a group who had started fighting as he had injuries to his feet and tail. As a result he has some missing toes and a shorter than average tail. All these are now fully healed and don't cause him any issues. He has a lovely orangey firey hue to him which is where he got his name! He is thriving in our store now and growing bigger everyday! 

If you'd like to adopt Hiccup, Edwina or Charmander, please message us on social media @shaunaspetshop on Facebook and Instagram.